The Chicken Check Up – What to Look For

I try to give our girls a good chicken check up once a month. I have it on my calendar for the first weekend every month. Although, with busy schedules, that’s easier said than done! So, every day, when I let them out to free range, I look for any abnormalities.

I love spending time outside with my chickens. It’s good for my soul and there’s just something relaxing about it If you spend more than a few minutes with your chickens, you will realize pretty quickly if something is wrong.

However, when my schedule allows, I look them over from head (or beak) to toe. Here’s what I look for.

Feet

Chickens are rough on their feet! I check the nails to make sure there are none missing. I also look to make sure they aren’t too long. If the nail catches on something, it could rip off.

I also check the bottom of the foot for any swelling, lacerations, puncture wounds or signs of Bumblefoot. Bumblefoot can start with a small scratch and quickly turn into a staph infection. 

If the nails need trimming, you can use dog nail clippers. I like the ones with a guard.

Chickens should maintain their nails themselves when foraging. However, older girls or some breeds like Silkies may have unusually shaped feet and you may need to intervene.

The nails have a vein in them, so use caution when trimming.

Legs

Scales should be smooth and lay flat. If raised or crusty, it could be a sign of scaly leg mites. As your bird ages, the legs will be a little rough but should still lay flat.

Make sure there is no limping. This could also be Bumblefoot or an injury.

Feathers

Feathers should be shiny, have good color and not broken. They should be even and tight not ruffled. I look for signs of picking and feather loss. Also, check the shafts of the feathers for any nits (lice eggs).

Towards the end of summer, your birds’ feathers will start to look worn out. This is normal. They will molt, just in time for winter, to replace broken feathers with new.

If not molting, feather loss can be a sign of mites, lice, stress, or picking. You will have to observe more to determine the cause.   

Make sure your birds have a dust bath area. This aids in smothering mites and lice and removes excess oils from their feathers. Check out my blog post on setting one up.

Vent

If you hen is laying, the vent should be moist. You also want to make sure the area is clean and there are no droppings attached to the feathers. Also, check for mites. The vent area is the perfect condition for mites to thrive.

If your hen is laying, look for prolapse vent. This is when the internal tissue hangs outside of the vent. The vent naturally prolapses a little while laying but should go back in.  

Other birds may peck at this area also (especially if prolapse occurs). Check for any peck marks and treat if necessary.  

Crop

The crop is on the right side of the chest. We refer to it as the “food boob.” Food is stored here prior to digestion.

It should be squishy and not hard. It will be full in the evenings but should empty by morning. If not, it could be impacted.  

Eyes

Eyes should be bright with no discharge or swelling. If you notice any, you should quarantine, treat and monitor for further symptoms. There are several respiratory illnesses that birds can get.

Ears and Nostrils

There should not be any discharge.

Beak

The beak should not be overgrown or split. Our birds will scrape theirs on the ground, roost, or concrete to keep trim. If it gets too long, you may need to trim. We haven’t had to do this, but it can be done using nail clippers if needed.  Some people use a Dremel tool. This is definitely a two-person job. The sound of the Dremel can upset your birds. Just be careful, the beak is sensitive.

If the beak is split, you can use superglue to repair.

The top and bottom beak should line up. Some birds may have an overbite which is fine as long as they are eating and drinking okay.

Many people will “debeak” their chickens. This is common in large flocks to prevent pecking injuries and cannibalism. I’m not a fan but understand why it’s done. We got Hazel from a man that had at least 100 birds. We didn’t notice that her beak was trimmed. She struggles from time to time to eat certain things and can’t defend herself against the other birds.

Comb

The comb will tell you a lot about your chicken’s health. It should be bright and full (unless they are molting). Check for any peck marks, sores, or blisters.  Birds are curious and occasionally will bump their combs or even get them stuck causing sores. If any serious wounds, clean and treat.

Fowl Pox will start as white blisters then turn to sores. Our girls had it last fall. Be sure and check out that blog post for more info.

If a bird is broody or just gone through a molt, their comb may be pale and maybe flat. When broody, hens take in 80% less food and water than normal.

If not broody or molting, this could be a sign of illness, possible mites, lice, or heat stress.

Molting can be hard on your birds. It takes a lot to make and rebuild feathers. I like to give electrolytes and NutriDrench during these times.

If it’s winter time and you live in colder climates, look for signs of Frostbite.

If the comb is blue or purplish in appearance, may indicate respiratory, circulatory or heart problems.

General Appearance

Your chicken should be alert, active, foraging, and interested in chicken things. They should be eating and drinking normally. Keep an eye on their weight.  Smaller full-size breeds usually weigh 5-6 lbs. and dual purpose are 7-8 lbs. Silkies will be less. Weight loss can be a sign of bullying or illness.   

Sick chickens will hide or be withdrawn. They are easy prey for predators and the other chickens in your flock. If they are sick, you need to act fast. Illness spreads quickly in a flock and cannibalism can ruin a flock.   

If you are looking to purchase chicks, there are a few additional things to look for:

Feet – no deformities

Legs – splay leg

Vent – Pasty Butt

Doing a quick assessment daily and a full check monthly for your chickens is ideal. The full chicken check-up shouldn’t take more than 10 minutes per bird, assuming you can catch them. If your birds are skittish or not use to being handled, do it at dusk when your birds are ready to roost or sleepy.  

If you haven’t done so already, set up your chicken first aid kit. I like to be prepared and when you notice problems or an illness, it’s nice to have what you need on hand.