Mice and Rats in the Chicken Coop

So, we have mice and rats in the chicken coop. Not really in the coop but the shed right next to it. Our coop is really a hen house The traditional coop is a structure that you walk in. Ours is up off the group, which gives them more room in the run, and is a place they sleep and lay eggs.

We’ve been battling mice and rats in the chicken coop for about six months now. I thought we were rid of them because I hadn’t seen any real signs in a while. We’d caught quite a few using the traditional snap mouse traps and the rolling log mouse trap.

But since Spring is here, we seem to be over run again! Last week, I saw one in the house! Seriously, y’all! And she was big! My husband put poison out. Then yestersday, our dishwasher started leaking. They’d chewed through the water line.

A few weeks ago, I listened to a webinar hosted by a professor from Penn State. He said if you have chickens, you will always have mice. It’s a matter of what you can live with. I can’t live with this! I think we will always have to be vigilint and assume we have mice.

What Can You Use to Get Rid of Mice or Rats in the Chicken Coop

We’ve set up the traditional snap traps in various places. We were very successful with this last year. Mice and rats do not like open spaces. They will run along the baseboards so set any traps there. Also place where your chickens can’t get them.

We purchased the bucket/rolling log mouse trap last year and have it set up in the shed. Previously, we caught several with this trap. It works by placing the rolling log across a 5 gallon bucket filled with water. The rats run across. Then, they roll off and drown.

Now we are using sticky traps. I don’t really like this because the mice don’t die right away. Usually, you have to take care of that after they’re caught.

I also purchased the Electronic Humane Rodent Zapper. It’s an electronic rat trap that shocks them using 7000 volts. I’ve seen some signs of mice around our feed container, so I set it up there.

There are several brands of poisons that work differently. Some will cause internal bleeding, others administer a lethal dose of Vit D, and another type is a neutoxin that leads to paralysis.

The bad thing about poison is if they die in your walls, it stinks! Bad! There’s also a risk that your chickens will eat the dying mouse, which could lead to secondary poisoning.

We found a mouse hole in the bottom of our pantry. It’s obvious, we’ve had a problem for a little bit but they haven’t been distructive until the dishwasher issue.

So What Can You Do to Keep Mice and Rats out of the Chicken Coop

· Don’t allow them access. Look for any openings where they can get in. This is easier said than done. A mouse can get through a ¼” crack. They do this by dislocating their shoulders, which is the largest part of their body, then the rest of the body will slide through.

· If you have ventilation in your coop, use hardware cloth on the openings.

· Keep the area around the coop clean. Clear out any wood piles, trash, equipment, etc.

· Plant mint. Its said that mice and rats don’t like the smell of mint. I tried mint last year but couldn’t get it to grow. You can also use peppermint essential oils but I think that could get a litle expensive, or peppermint flavorings from the baking aisle.

· Don’t leave food out. I started picking up the chicken feed in the run. However, when the chickens eat it, they peck and spill it everywhere. I have been bringing the feeders in at night which is why I think the mice are coming inside. I’m considering a grandpa feeder and it may be time to get one.

· Also if you give treats, make sure your chickens eat all of it and don’t leave any on the ground. This also helps to keep other predators away.

· Add cayenne pepper to the feed. Some old-timers will tell you that rats and mice avoid cayenne pepper. It has medicinal properties for humans and according to an old article in the Dallas Morning news, it will get your girls to laying. So, I’m going to give this a try.

· Store food in a sealed container. I learned pretty quickly that they were chewing a hole in the bottom of the feed bag. With enough time, mice and rats can chew through plastic so we purchased galvanized buckets from Tractor Supply that come with a lid.

· Remove the water. The traditional house mouse does not require water. They get what they need from any food they are eating but rats need water.

· When baiting your traps, rodents won’t eat food they are unfamiliar with. They are also weary of unusual things. Whatever trap you use (except the sticky trap), bait but don’t set for a few days so the mice think its safe. Be patient! This is the hardest part for me. Now that I know we have mice, I want them gone!

· We use peanut butter and whatever they are eating from the house, ie chicken feed and sunflower seeds in our traps.

· Get a cat. I’m seriously considering this. Our chickens will eat mice. However, most mice are active at night when the chickens are sleeping.

Disenfecting and Cleaning up Afterwards

Once you catch mice, double bag them to help elimainate any chance of disease or germs spreading.

Continue to set traps for a week after you’ve trapped the last mouse.

The CDC recommends using a bleach and water mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water when cleaning up rat or mice urine and feces.

Prior to cleaning, ventilate the space for at least 30 minutes. Wear latex or rubber gloves. It is not recommend to sweep the droppings. The sweeping or brushing action can break down the particles releasing germs in the air. This can be hazardous if you breathe in. Also, don’t vacuum. 

Saturate the area and let it soak for 5 minutes. Use a paper towel when cleaning and dispose in the trash.  

Now that you’ve wiped it up, do a second cleaning with the bleach solution. Mop floors and clean countertops like you normally would but substitute the bleach solution for your regular cleaner.

I used 1/3 cup bleach with 3 cups of water. It fit perfect in the spray bottle. If you have a large area to clean, mix 1 1/2 cups of bleach with 1 gallon of water.

If you have rats or mice in the coop, remove all the bedding and dispose. You can even spray dirt floors with the bleach solution.

Mice also Carry Viruses and Diseases.

Mice and rats teeth are continually growing. They chew to keep them trimmed down. In addition to the damage they cause, if desperate, they will attack your chickens and they carry several viruses and diseases.

Leptospirosis – eating food or drinking water that has been contaminated with rat urine

Hantavirus – transmitted by rat urine, feces, or bites.

Salmonellosis – eating food or drinking water that has been contaminated with rat urine

Mice can live up to three years of age. They become sexually mature at six weeks and can have 5-10 litters of babies per year with an average of 8 babies per litter. That’s 40-80 babies for one female. So, very quickly you can have an infestation.

We are facing this problem head on. The Bearded Rooster caught several this week including a nest of babies. I think we have to assume that we always have rats and be diligent about our mouse catching. We’re definitely on the right track.